I've been tightening panel lugs by feel for 20 years.

Your inspector is referencing updated electrical safety standards requiring torque specifications for panel lug connections. Here's what changed:

The Code Change:

• 2017 NEC 110.14(D) now requires electrical connections to be tightened to the manufacturer's torque specifications
• This was expanded in 2020 NEC 110.16 to include arc-resistant equipment requirements

Why It Matters:

• Under-tightened lugs cause high resistance → heat buildup → potential fires
• Over-tightened lugs can damage conductors or strip threads
• Proper torque ensures optimal electrical contact and safety

What You Need:

• Torque screwdriver or wrench calibrated to manufacturer specs
• Manufacturer's installation instructions (usually found on panel labels or documentation)
• Typical ranges: 12-25 lb-in for #14-10 AWG, 25-50 lb-in for larger conductors

Practical Steps:

1. Check panel label for torque values
2. If not listed, contact manufacturer
3. Use calibrated torque tool
4. Document torque values applied

Bottom Line: "Tight by feel" is no longer compliant. You'll need a torque tool and must follow manufacturer specifications. This isn't just inspector preference—it's now enforceable code.

Invest in a quality torque screwdriver (around $100-300) and keep documentation of your torque applications. Your 20 years of experience is valuable, but the code now requires measurable precision for safety.

He’s talking about NEC 110.14(D) (2020/2023), which now explicitly requires torque tightening per the manufacturer’s specifications using a calibrated torque wrench or screwdriver. "By feel" is no longer code-compliant for terminations.

Why it changed: Loose connections cause arcing, heat, and fires. Studies show even experienced electricians consistently over- or under-torque by 30–50% without a tool. UL 486A/B listing tests assume proper torque.

What you need to do:

1. Get the specs: Look at the panel label or the breaker/lug manufacturer’s sheet (often a sticker inside the panel door). It lists in-lbs or Nm per wire size.
2. Use a calibrated tool: A click-type torque wrench (in-lb range) or torque screwdriver. Calibrate annually.
3. Document it: Many AHJs now want a torque log or checklist signed off on the rough-in card.
4. Re-torque? Only if the manufacturer says so (some say "one-time only"). NEC 110.14(D) doesn't mandate re-torquing after load, but some specs do.

Pro tip: Torque the lug before inserting the wire if the design allows (some breakers), or hold the conductor steady so you don't twist the strand bundle while torquing.

Bottom line: The inspector is right. It’s a safety mandate, not a suggestion. Buy a decent 1/4" drive torque wrench (10–100 in-lb) and keep the cert paper in your truck.