Doing a 200A service change on a house where the main panel is in the garage, meter is on the outside wall.

The inspector is likely requiring an outside disconnect (sometimes called a "meter-combo" or "service disconnect switch") per NEC 230.70(A)(3) and 230.70(A)(4) — when the service entrance conductors are more than 6 feet long inside the building, or when the panel isn't readily accessible from outside.

Since your main panel is in the garage and the meter is on the exterior wall, the inspector wants a way for firefighters (or utility workers) to shut off power without entering the house.

Options:

1. Meter-Socket Combo with Built-in Disconnect Replace the existing meter socket with a meter-combo unit that includes a 200A disconnect switch. This satisfies the requirement and keeps everything in one outdoor enclosure.

1. Outdoor Disconnect Switch Near Meter Install a 200A fusible or non-fusible disconnect in a weatherproof box near the meter, ahead of the panel. Must be within sight of the meter and accessible.

1. Relocate Main Panel Outside If feasible, move the main panel to an exterior wall so it serves as its own disconnect.

Key Code References:

• NEC 230.70(A)(3): Requires the service disconnect to be within sight of the service entrance conductors.
• NEC 230.70(A)(4): If the disconnect is at a different location than the meter, it must still be readily accessible and grouped with the meter base.
• NEC 230.85: If the disconnect is outside, it must have a clear view of the service entrance point.

Recommendation:

Install a meter-combo disconnect — cleanest solution, meets code, and satisfies the inspector. Make sure it's rated for outdoor use and properly secured.

Let me know if you're on a utility-restricted meter program — some require utility-side disconnect approval.

The inspector is enforcing NEC 230.85 (2020/2023): Emergency Disconnects for One- and Two-Family Dwelling Units.

Requirement: A service disconnect must be installed at a readily accessible location outside the dwelling. Since your main panel is inside the garage, it does not satisfy this.

Your options (pick one):

1. Meter-Main Combo (Preferred): Replace the existing meter socket with a meter-main (meter socket with integrated 200A main breaker). This becomes the new service disconnect (outside). The garage panel becomes a subpanel (remove main bonding screw, separate grounds/neutrals, 4-wire feed).
2. Outdoor Disconnect + Existing Meter: Install a 200A service-rated disconnect (NEMA 3R) on the exterior wall adjacent to the meter. Re-feed the garage panel from this new disconnect (4-wire, subpanel rules apply).
3. Relocate Main Panel Outside: Move the 200A panel to the exterior wall (NEMA 3R rated). Requires extending all branch circuits—usually cost-prohibitive.

Critical Code Details for Option 1 or 2:

• Grounding: GEC (Grounding Electrode Conductor) lands at the new outside disconnect (250.24(A)(1)). Garage panel gets an EGC (Equipment Grounding Conductor) in the feeder.
• Bonding: Garage panel = Subpanel. Remove main bonding screw/jumper. Isolated neutral bar. Ground bar bonded to can.
• Feeder: 4-wire (2 hots, neutral, ground) from outside disconnect to garage panel. Size per 310.12 (e.g., 4/0 Al or 2/0 Cu for 200A).
• Short-Circuit Current Rating (SCCR): New disconnect/panel SCCR ≥ available fault current (230.85, 110.10).
• Labeling: "Emergency Disconnect, Service Disconnect" placard required at outside device (230.85(C)).

Don't: Just add a breaker in the garage panel. That violates 230.85 (not outside) and 230.70 (not at nearest point of entrance).

Verify: Confirm utility requirements for meter-main vs. separate disconnect. Some POCOs forbid meter-mains or require specific models.