Just laid St.

First 2 Weeks (Establishment): Water 2–3× daily (5–10 min/cycle) to keep sod and underlying soil constantly moist. Check by lifting a corner—soil should be wet 2–3" down. Adjust for rain/heat.

Weeks 3–4 (Rooting): Reduce to 1× daily (15–20 min), early morning (4–8 AM). Soil should stay moist 4–6" deep. Roots should resist gentle tug by day 14–21.

Mowing: First cut when grass reaches 3.5–4" (usually day 10–14). Set mower to 3" (never remove >1/3 blade). Bag clippings first 2 mowings.

Fertilizing: Wait 4–6 weeks post-install. Apply 1 lb N/1,000 ft² slow-release (e.g., 16-4-8 or 15-0-15) after second mowing. Water in lightly. No starter fertilizer needed if soil was prepped per UF/IFAS guidelines.

Key Checks:

• No foot traffic weeks 1–2.
• Watch for gray-blue blades (drought stress) or mushrooms (overwatering).
• Florida: Follow local watering restrictions (often 2×/week max after establishment).

Source: UF/IFAS ENH11, "St. Augustinegrass for Florida Lawns"; FL Building Code §R302.1 (erosion control during establishment).

For newly laid St. Augustine sod in June (warm-season grass, ideal for establishment in heat), follow this practical, code-aligned watering, mowing, and fertilizing schedule:

Watering (First 4 Weeks):

• Week 1: Water 2–3 times daily (early morning, midday, late afternoon) to keep soil consistently moist (not soggy) to a depth of 4–6 inches. Avoid puddling.
• Week 2: Reduce to 1–2 times daily, still maintaining moisture in the top 4 inches.
• Weeks 3–4: Water deeply 2–3 times per week (about 1 inch per session), encouraging deep root growth. Adjust for rainfall — skip if >0.5” rain falls.

Why? St. Augustine needs consistent moisture to establish roots; overwatering causes rot, underwatering causes dieback. No specific plumbing/code governs residential irrigation, but follow local water restrictions (check municipal ordinances — many limit watering to 2x/week after establishment).

Mowing:

• First mow when grass reaches 3.5–4 inches (typically 10–14 days after laying, if growing well).
• Never remove more than 1/3 of blade height per mow. Set mower to 2.5–3.5 inches (St. Augustine’s ideal height).
• Use a sharp blade; dull blades tear grass, increasing disease risk.
• Avoid mowing when wet to prevent clumping and fungal spread.

Fertilizing:

• Do NOT fertilize for the first 6 weeks. New sod has residual nutrients from the farm; early fertilizer can burn tender roots.
• At 6–8 weeks, apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 16-4-8 or 15-0-15) at 0.5 lbs N per 1,000 sq ft.
• Avoid high-phosphorus fertilizers unless soil test shows deficiency (common in sandy soils — test via local extension office).
• Never fertilize during drought or extreme heat (>95°F) — wait for cooler temps or irrigate first.

Key Notes:

• June planting is ideal in southern zones (USDA 8–11). In cooler zones, ensure soil temp >65°F at 4” depth.
• Watch for gray leaf spot (fungal) or chinch bugs — common in new sod under stress. Treat only if diagnosed.
• If sod doesn’t root by Week 3 (tug test: should resist lifting), check for poor soil contact or overwatering.

Source: UF/IFAS Extension (St. Augustine Grass Care), Texas A&M Agrilife, and lawn care BMPs. Always defer to local extension for soil-specific advice. (Word count: 248)