Use a high-quality, paintable, siliconized acrylic latex caulk (ASTM C834 / C920 Class 25). Top-tier options: OSI Quad Max, Sashco Big Stretch, or Dynaflex 230. Avoid pure silicone (unpaintable) and cheap "painter's caulk" (cracks in 1–2 years).
Sequence (critical for adhesion and paint life):
- Prep: Scrape loose paint, sand glossy surfaces, clean dust/oil. Prime bare wood and any exposed substrate (flashing, sheathing) — let primer dry fully.
- Back-prime (best practice): Coat back of trim boards before install.
- Install trim. Nail/screw off.
- Caulk: Apply after trim is fastened, before final paint coats. Tool bead immediately (wet finger or tool) to force contact — do not skip tooling.
- Cure: Let caulk skin over per label (typically 2–4 hrs, 24 hrs for full cure).
- Paint: Two finish coats over primed/caulked surfaces.
Key joints to caulk: Trim-to-siding, trim-to-jamb, miters, butt joints, nail holes >1/8". Do not caulk: Bottom of window stool/sill (weep), behind flashing, or any designed drainage path.
Pro tip: Cut tip at 45°, ~1/8" hole. Push caulk into joint, don't pull. Wipe excess with damp rag before it skins. If temp <40°F or >90°F, check product limits — most latex fails outside 40–90°F application range.