Painting a two-story exterior off a 28-foot extension ladder.

OSHA 1926.1053 governs portable ladders. For a 28-ft extension ladder reaching a two-story eave (~24–25 ft), here’s the non-negotiable setup:

1. Angle (4:1 Rule): Base 7 ft from the wall (28 ft ÷ 4). Measure from the wall to the feet, not the shoes. Use the ladder’s angle indicator or stand at the base with toes touching feet; extend arms—palms should hit the rung at shoulder height.
2. Extension Above Landing: Side rails must extend ≥3 ft above the roof/eave contact point (1926.1053(b)(1)). On a 28-ft ladder, this leaves ~21 ft working length—tight for 24-ft eaves. You likely need a 32-ft ladder.
3. Secure the Top: Tie off both side rails to a solid anchor (gutter spikes/straps fail). Use a ladder stabilizer/stand-off (1926.1053(b)(4)) to span windows and protect gutters.
4. Secure the Base: On soil, use stakes/cleats; on concrete, use non-slip pads or a helper footing it (1926.1053(b)(6)). Never set on boxes, barrels, or unstable ground.
5. Level & Stable: Use leg levelers for uneven ground. Ladder must not rock.
6. Inspection: Check before each use for cracks, loose rungs, missing feet, rope/pulley function (1926.1053(b)(15)). Tag and destroy damaged ladders.
7. Electrical: Keep ≥10 ft from overhead lines (1926.1408). Use fiberglass only near power.
8. Work Practices: Face ladder, 3-point contact, belt buckle between rails, don’t carry heavy buckets (use a rope/hoist), don’t stand on top 3 rungs.

Bottom line: If the eave is 24+ ft, a 28-ft ladder is too short to meet the 3-ft extension rule safely. Rent a 32-ft or 36-ft Type IA/IAa fiberglass extension ladder. Fall protection (PFAS) is required if working ≥6 ft without guardrails, but on a ladder, the ladder is the protection—if set up perfectly.

To avoid becoming an incident report, follow OSHA’s ladder safety rules under 29 CFR 1926.1053 (Construction) and 1910.23 (General Industry) — both apply to exterior painting work.

Key OSHA Requirements for a 28-Foot Extension Ladder:

1. Angle (4:1 Rule) - Place the ladder so the base is 1 foot out from the wall for every 4 feet of height. - For a 28-foot ladder: Base distance = 28 ÷ 4 = 7 feet from the wall. - Check: Stand with toes against the base, arms straight out — palms should touch the rung at shoulder height.

1. Extension Above Support - The ladder must extend at least 3 feet (36 inches) above the landing surface (e.g., roof, eave, or platform) you’re accessing. - For a 28-foot ladder: If you’re climbing onto a roof or platform, the top 3+ feet must extend beyond the point of support. → Do not stand on the top 3 rungs — they’re not designed for weight-bearing.

1. Secure the Ladder - Tie off the top to a secure anchor (e.g., gutter, roof structure) using a rope or ladder stabilizer — never rely on friction alone. - Use ladder levelers or outriggers on uneven ground. - Block or stake the base to prevent slipping — especially on grass, gravel, or smooth surfaces.

1. Load & Condition - Do not exceed the ladder’s duty rating (Type IA: 300 lbs min for professional use — include you, tools, paint). - Inspect for cracks, loose rungs, or damaged feet before each use. - Never paint a ladder — it hides defects.

1. Three Points of Contact - Always maintain two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand on the ladder while climbing or working.

1. No Overreaching - Keep your belt buckle between the side rails. If you can’t reach without leaning, descend and reposition.

Pro Tip:

Use a ladder stabilizer (like a “Ladder-Lock” or “Ladder Leveler”) to increase base width and prevent sideways slip — critical on soft or sloped ground.

If you’re working near power lines, stay at least 10 feet away — or call the utility. If the job requires working over 6 feet above a lower level without fall protection, OSHA may require a harness and anchor — but for ladder use alone, proper setup is your primary defense.

Follow these, and you’ll be the guy who goes home — not the one in the report. Stay safe. Ladders don’t forgive carelessness.