Yes. At 35°F, asphalt shingles are brittle and sealant strips won't activate. You are installing a "cold weather roof." Follow these steps or expect blow-offs and cracked shingles.
1. Hand-Seal Every Shingle (Critical) Factory sealant strips will not activate until sustained temps hit ~70°F. You must hand-seal with asphalt plastic cement (ASTM D4586 Type I or II).
- 3-Tab: Two 1" diameter spots under each tab, 1"–2" from edges.
- Architectural/Laminate: Four spots (two per layer) or a continuous 3/8" bead 1" above bottom edge.
- Code: IRC R905.2.8.2 / IBC 1507.2.9 – "Fasteners shall be applied... and sealed per manufacturer's instructions for cold weather."
2. Prevent Cracking
- Store bundles flat, warm, and off the ground. Bring only what you’ll install in 1–2 hours. Keep the rest in a heated box/trailer (>50°F).
- Do not bend shingles over hips/ridges/valleys. Pre-bend them in a warm area or use pre-formed ridge cap/hip shingles rated for cold install.
- Cut shingles on a warm surface (not frozen roof deck). Use a hook blade; utility knives shatter cold shingles.
3. Nailing Adjustments
- Gun pressure down. Cold wood is harder; standard pressure drives heads through the mat. Test on scrap decking. Heads must be flush, not countersunk.
- Hand-nail hips, ridges, valleys, rakes, and eaves for control.
- Use 1¼" min. ring-shank (IRC R905.2.6).
4. Underlayment & Deck
- Deck must be dry and ice-free. Sweep frost/moisture before laying paper.
- Use synthetic underlayment (less wrinkling/tearing than #15 felt in cold). Cap-nail edges.
5. Ventilation/Attic Heat
- If attic is warm, deck may be damp. Verify dew point. Vent bath fans outside, not into soffit.
Bottom Line: If you can’t hand-seal and keep shingles warm, stop and wait for warmer weather. Manufacturer warranties void if cold-weather instructions ignored.