Reroof in progress: the crew ran starter course along the eave using full architectural shingles turned upside down, didn't put any starter on the rakes, and they've got the first course hanging 2 inches past the drip edge because the fascia is a little wavy.

Three code violations and a wind-uplift nightmare.

1. Wrong starter material (IRC R905.2.8.2 / Manufacturer specs). Architectural shingles turned upside down are not starter strip. They lack the factory-applied sealant strip at the correct leading edge, are too thick (creating a hump under the first course), and the laminate layers can delaminate. You must use purpose-made starter strip shingles or 3-tab shingles with tabs cut off.

1. Missing rake starter (IRC R905.2.8.2 / Drip edge req. R905.2.8.5). Rake edges require starter strip (or sealed 3-tabs) cemented to the deck under the underlayment/drip edge interface. Without it, wind gets under the first course tabs and peels the roof like a banana. This is the #1 failure mode in high wind.

1. Excessive overhang (IRC R905.2.8.5 / NRCA). Shingles must overhang the drip edge ¼" to ¾" max. A 2" overhang has no support. It will curl, crack, snap off under ice/snow load, and funnel wind underneath. The wavy fascia is not an excuse; you fix the fascia (shim/straighten) or trim the drip edge, not the shingle overhang.

Fix now, before next course:

• Tear off the upside-down architectural "starter" and the first course.
• Straighten/shim fascia so drip edge is straight.
• Install proper starter strip on eaves and rakes, sealed per mfr instructions (usually 4-6 dots of roof cement on rake starter).
• Re-install first course with ½" overhang max.

Do not caulk the 2" overhang and call it good. That’s a callback waiting for the first 60 mph gust.

Several critical errors here violate manufacturer specs and building codes (IRC R905.2.1, IBC 1507.2.1, and shingle manufacturer requirements like GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed):

1. Starter course upside down: Architectural shingles are not designed to be used as starter strips when inverted. Starter strips must have the adhesive sealant strip along the bottom edge to bond to the first course and resist wind uplift. Turning them upside down places the sealant on top — useless for sealing and risks shingle blow-off. Use proper starter strips or cut shingles correctly (tab-up, sealant down).

1. No starter on rakes: Rake edges require starter strips (or properly installed shingles with sealant facing up) to prevent wind uplift and water intrusion at the gable ends. Missing rake starter voids warranty and risks blow-off.

1. First course overhanging 2" past drip edge: Excessive overhang. Code and manufacturers limit overhang to ¼" to ¾" beyond the drip edge (or fascia). 2" is far too much — it lacks support, sags, cracks, and invites wind uplift and water backup. Wavy fascia doesn’t justify this; fix the fascia or use a straightedge guide.

What to do now:

• Remove the incorrectly installed starter and first course.
• Install proper starter strips along eaves and rakes (sealant down, overhang ¼"–¾").
• Re-lay first course with correct overhang.
• If fascia is uneven, snap a chalk line for alignment — don’t compensate by overhanging shingles.

This is a workmanship failure. If the crew won’t correct it, involve the supervisor or consider a third-party inspection. Warranty and code compliance are at risk. (Word count: 198)